Green and silk brocade dress, ca. 1860
Item 11547 info
Pejepscot History Center
Officers in Napoleon's Egyptian Campaign of 1798 brought home Far Eastern articles as gifts, creating a fashion for exotic items during the Romantic Period.
Indian shawls, especially those from Kashmir, made of the wool of the Tibetan goat, were the most highly prized.
European weavers tried to imitate the intricate hand loomed and embroidered patterns that were the secrets of only a few Indian families. In France, shawls were made of silk and wool blends.
Shawls provided warmth without bulk and were more convenient in changeable weather. They also solved a problem of tailoring coats to fit the voluminous skirts of the 1850s and 60s.
Skirts had swelled in circumference to an enormous dome shape made possible by numerous petticoats and the addition of "crinoline," stiff fabric made of horsehair.
The jacket bodice was developed as an alternative to back fastenings and sleeves widened into a "pagoda" shape.
Taffetas, moiré silks, faille, and velvets were all immensely popular and Queen Victoria's passion for Scotch plaids spread quickly even to America.
Elaborate silk fringes, ruching, and braid were added to emphasize the bodice and sleeves. A starched white cotton or lace cuff was worn inside the wide sleeve and could be removed separately.
The 1850s "cage" crinoline, supported by steel hoops, made for difficult passage on train aisles and in most doorways. By the end of the 1850s skirts were so enormous that two women were unable to sit on the same sofa.
Item 9 of 24
