American Civil War fashions date between 1860 and 1869, capturing the breadth of the War and its impact on clothing production. During the War (1861–1865) Southern cotton was scarce, wool production increased dramatically, and the American silk industry was still in its infancy. Textile manufacturing relied heavily on New England mills and was an important part of the Maine economy. Some Maine cotton mills branched out or converted out of necessity during the War, while Pepperell Manufacturing Company in Biddeford and Bates Mill in Lewiston made cotton duck (canvas) for Union Army tents. Bates stockpiled raw cotton early on, later selling it profitably when shortage set in.
In women’s fashions the soft domed crinoline skirts, shaped by layers of heavy petticoats, faded away. The incoming crinoline skirt style was larger and wider, but very lightweight. Instead of petticoats, it was supported by shaped wire frames. Increased military production meant fabrics and notions such as buttons and thread were less available for civilian clothing, but the market was not depleted, evidenced by bold patterns, wide skirts, and embellishments seen during the War era. For this period, the Maine Historical Society collection is strongest in Union military uniforms and accouterments, and examples of early 1860s womenswear. Representation of civilian menswear or children’s clothing diminishes as the decade progresses.
This Civil War-era clothing vignette is part of Northern Threads: Two centuries of dress at Maine Historical Society, a two-part exhibition at MHS in 2022. See the Civil War portion, or the full exhibit online by using the links below.
